A fence is only as good as its gates. Gates are the moving parts — they get opened and closed thousands of times, they hang all their weight on two posts, and they are the first thing to sag, drag, or refuse to latch when shortcuts were taken. We build gates like the hardworking components they are: reinforced frames, heavy-duty hardware, and posts set to carry the load.
Whether you need a simple walk gate, a wide double gate for a trailer or boat, or a self-closing pool gate that meets code, this page covers the options.
Walk Gates
The everyday gate — typically 3 to 4 feet wide — for people coming and going. A good walk gate swings freely, latches with one hand, and does not drag on the ground. We build walk gates in wood, vinyl, composite, aluminum, and chain link to match your fence.
Details that matter: the frame should be braced (a Z or X brace on wood gates prevents the classic diagonal sag), hinges should be sized above the gate's weight, and the latch should be reachable and operable from both sides. For front-yard gates, an arched top adds real character.
Double Drive Gates
Two leaves that meet in the middle, typically 8 to 16 feet total width, for vehicles, mowers, trailers, and boats. Double gates are heavy — each leaf is a long lever pulling on its post — so the posts get extra concrete and the hinges get upsized. A center drop rod or cane bolt holds one leaf fixed while the other operates day to day.
If you are planning for a boat or camper, measure the widest thing you will ever bring through and add margin. Widening a gate later means rebuilding posts — much cheaper to size it right the first time.
Self-Closing Pool Gates
Gates in a pool barrier must self-close and self-latch — this is a code requirement, not a preference. We install spring-loaded or hydraulic self-closing hinges and magna-style self-latching locks mounted high enough that small children cannot reach them, with the gate swinging outward away from the pool.
Pool gate rules are specific and strictly enforced. See our "pool fence page" for the full barrier requirements, and always confirm current code with Charles County.
Latches, Locks, and Hardware
Hardware is where cheap gates reveal themselves. We use hinges and latches rated above the gate's actual weight, with stainless or coated fasteners that will not rust-streak your fence in our humidity. Options include:
Gravity and thumb latches — simple, reliable, operable from both sides. The workhorse choice.
Key-lockable latches — for side and back gates where you want security.
Self-closing hinges — required for pools, smart for any gate you want to never find standing open.
Drop rods and cane bolts — hold double-gate leaves and stabilize tall single gates.
Automation-Ready Builds
Thinking about an automatic gate opener someday? Tell us now. Automation needs larger posts, precise geometry, power run to the gate location, and clearance for the swing or slide path. Building automation-ready during the initial install costs far less than retrofitting later — even if you do not buy the opener for years.
We build the gate and posts to automation specs on request. (We do not sell or install the electronic openers themselves — your electrician or gate-automation specialist handles that part — but the gate will be ready when they arrive.)
Why Gates Sag (and How We Prevent It)
Almost every sagging gate comes down to three causes: posts that were not set deep enough in concrete, a frame without proper bracing, or hinges too light for the weight. Our clay soil makes the first cause especially common — a gate post in shallow dirt leans within a couple of winters.
Our fix is structural, not cosmetic: gate posts get deeper holes and more concrete than line posts, frames get real bracing (steel-reinforced on vinyl and composite), and hardware gets upsized. A gate built this way swings true for decades instead of dragging by year three.
Gates for Every Fence Type
We build gates to match "wood", "vinyl", "composite", "aluminum", and "chain link" fences. Matching matters — a gate should look like it belongs to the fence, not like an afterthought.
What Gates Cost
Every project differs. A basic walk gate adds a modest amount to a fence project; wide double drive gates, arched tops, and automation-ready builds cost more. As with everything we do, "request a free estimate" for your exact written price — and see our "cost guide" for planning figures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my current gate sag and drag?
Usually one of three things: the post has leaned (common in clay soil with shallow footings), the frame has racked without bracing, or the hinges are undersized. We can often "repair" a sagging gate by resetting the post, rebuilding the frame, or upgrading hardware — sometimes all three.
Can you automate my existing gate?
Sometimes. The gate needs to be the right weight and geometry, the posts need to be automation-grade, and power must reach the location. We can assess your current gate and tell you honestly whether it is a candidate or needs rebuilding first.
What latch is best for a pool gate?
A self-latching lock mounted at least 54 inches above grade (check current local code), paired with self-closing hinges. The gate must swing outward from the pool and latch reliably every time — we test every pool gate before we leave.
How wide should a drive gate be?
Ten to twelve feet handles most cars and mowers comfortably. Fourteen to sixteen feet is better if you bring in a boat, camper, or trailer. When in doubt, go wider — you will never wish a gate were narrower.
Do gates need maintenance?
A little. Oil hinges once a year, check latch alignment, and make sure the gate still swings clear of the ground. Five minutes a year prevents most gate problems. See our "maintenance guide".
How do I get started?
"Request your free estimate" — tell us what the gate needs to do, and we will design and price it with your fence or as a standalone job.